Made Here
Vanish - Disappearing Icons of a Rural America
Season 21 Episode 5 | 1h 18m 15sVideo has Closed Captions
Vanish chronicles the "visual preservation" adventures of photographer Jim Westphalen.
A remarkable story of past and present, Vanish chronicles the ""visual preservation"" adventures of photographer, Jim Westphalen, as he travels across the country seeking out and creating stunning imagery of America's disappearing rural structures.
Made Here is a local public television program presented by Vermont Public
Sponsored in part by the John M. Bissell Foundation, Inc. | Learn about the Made Here Fund
Made Here
Vanish - Disappearing Icons of a Rural America
Season 21 Episode 5 | 1h 18m 15sVideo has Closed Captions
A remarkable story of past and present, Vanish chronicles the ""visual preservation"" adventures of photographer, Jim Westphalen, as he travels across the country seeking out and creating stunning imagery of America's disappearing rural structures.
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship-Hi, I'm -Eric Ford for Made Here.
-A remarkable story of past -and present -vanish, disappearing icons -of a rural America.
-Chronicles -the visual preservation -adventures of the Shelburne, -Vermont -filmmaker and photographer -Jim Westphalen -as he travels -across the country -seeking out and creating -stunning imagery -of America's disappearing -rural structures.
-You can watch vanish and -other great made here films -streaming on our website -and through the PBS app.
-Enjoy the film -and thanks for watching.
-It's 730 -on a Saturday morning, -and I'm headed north -to the town of Sheldon, -Vermont, -to photograph this little -19th century Camborne, -which is all that's left of -what was once -a thriving rail station -and farm complex.
-The original compound -was built around 1850 -on the old Missisquoi -Valley Railroad line.
-And from what -I've been told, -there was a cattle yard -and milking -barns, a farmhouse -and a carriage barn, an inn.
-And then, of course, -the train station itself.
-Then in 1910, a -spark from a passing train -ignited -a fire that destroyed all -about this one -little cow barn.
-My love for the country -was kindled early on.
-While -visiting my grandmother.
-Each summer in the Poconos -of Pennsylvania.
-Warm afternoons -fishing for sunnies -in the pond near -the one room schoolhouse -that my grandmother attended -when she was just a girl.
-She taught me how to fish -with a stick and a string, -and a bent safety pin -tied on the end.
-Listening for the horses -in the distance.
-As we waited for -the hay wagon to pull up -in front of the lodge -that my grandparents owned.
-My siblings -and I sitting on scratchy -hay bales as the team -slowly pulled us up the road -to the top of Sunset Hill, -where we'd watch the -lightning bugs come alive.
-Spending endless hours -playing in the field -behind my grandmother's -house.
-Sunup to sundown.
-Dreaming up adventures -and letting my imagination -run wild.
-The decades passed.
-And while I got busy -raising a family, -building a business -and making a life.
-That strong pull -of country never left me.
-So in -1996, in a leap of faith, -we pulled the trigger -and moved from suburban -Long Island to the beautiful -state of Vermont.
-Lush green mountains -and clear lakes.
-Rolling hills -dotted with farms and barns.
-Wide open spaces -and a simpler way of life.
-Heaven -to a kid from suburbia.
-To exploring the backroads.
-I immediately found myself -falling in love -with all the old barns -and photographing them.
-Any chance I'd get.
-But there was this -disturbing trend.
-I'd be driving down -the same country road -I driven a dozen times.
-Come upon a pile of rubble -and then realize -there used to be a barn -there.
-Sadly, this was becoming -a theme in my travels.
-I'd shake my head -and wonder, -am I the only -one who cares about this?
-All too often I'd find -some beautiful old structure -that I'd planned -to photograph, -but maybe it wasn't -the right season -or the right light.
-So I go back some months, -or sometimes -even just weeks later, -only to find ruin.
You.
-And when I get to poke -around -one of these worn out -beauties, -it's like a treasure hunt.
-As I look for clues.
-How many years ago was this -built and how was it used?
-Who were the people -who spent their days here?
-And if I close my eyes -and take in the smell -of old hay, or perhaps that -lingering scent of a horse, -I can almost hear -the lowing of the cows, -the sigh of that horse.
-Whispers from the past.
-There's this sadness -I feel not only for yet -another piece -of American history -that gave way to time, but -for the people themselves.
-The people and families -who built their lives -around these structures, -for their -hopes, for their dreams.
-Whenever we have objects -that we can all recognize -as being something -from grandparents -and great grandparents -generation, -it begins to, create -a kind of visual connective -tissue in our minds -about what -the landscape used to be.
-What used to be -on that corner, -what used to be -in that field.
-And whenever we start -that thought process -rolling, it leads us to a, -you know, a sense of loss, -a sense of longing, -a sense of interest -in what was here.
-And it becomes a call -to arms as -as I started sharing these -images here in Vermont.
-I began to wonder -if there was actually -a much bigger picture here.
-So starting -with the Plains of Montana, -I'd set out to discover -this for myself, -searching for all those -iconic rural structures -that our country's -heritage was built upon, -and capture the aging beauty -of as many as possible -before they completely -vanished -from the American landscape.
-This is -how varnish was born.
-If you just pause for -a moment and look closely.
-There is such remarkable -beauty -in these fading structures.
-It's a personality -and a character -that only comes -with the passage of time.
-Whether it's the rich -patina of a rusted tin roof.
-Peeling paint on faded -clapboard.
-The silent gaze of a prairie -church.
-Long forgotten.
-The gentle sway -of a sagging porch.
-The muted colors -of a weathered slate roof.
-The textures and delicate -puzzle of a stone foundation -that.
-The serenity of a barn.
-Sleeping in winter.
-The play of light through -slats of a tattered roof.
-The dry grasses that caress -a weary homestead.
-Or the testaments to faith -of past generations.
-It's just impossible -not to see the beauty, -the beauty and decay.
-And as I stand -with my camera and countless -overgrown fields, -I swear I can still see -the shadow of the people -who built -upon the land.
And.
-After all, weren't -all these structures -once a part of someone's -dream?
-They.
Be.
-I'm passionate -about the preservation -of the Glendale farm barns.
-When we lived in -Scotland, -Judy and I would visit -stately properties and note -that many of them had -these -purposeless structures.
-And they were called -follies.
-Judy refers to the barns -as jacks, violins.
-So this is the English barn -that we were talking about.
-And you can see -the construction, -the joinery -that makes it -very distinctive -as 18th century -New England barn.
-When we bought the barns, -the manure.
-Was up to here.
-We originally -just purchased the house -and the carriage barn, -which is the first barn -in the front.
-The other three barns, -there are four barns -in the complex.
-The other three barns -had been kept -with the working -agricultural land.
-After we had lived here for -about 15 years.
-The barns -were no longer in use -and they were not in good -condition.
-And the property -line at that point ran -actually -right through this structure -where I'm -sitting.
-We were offered -the opportunity -to purchase -the other three barns.
-I couldn't -imagine them ever having -been torn down.
-State barn -grant program began in 1993 -and we were -one of the first applicants.
-And that was based -on a study that Tom Visser -did an architectural -conservation assessment -of the barns.
-There he is.
-Hey there.
-Tom.
It's -good to see you, Joe.
-Just.
Wow.
Your husband.
-When we did this research -project, gosh, -over 20 years ago -here at, Glendale Farms, -the first strategy was to do -what we call a condition -assessment -of this complex of barns.
-The first question was, -where is that evidence -of active deterioration?
-What are the most pressing -needs -in order to be able -to preserve the structures, -to maintain their use, -even if it's just storage, -at as economical manner -as possible?
-What's amazing, -of course, about this -is that -you were so fortunate -that there is that 1870s -picture of the barns, -and to be able to have -that sort of -pictorial evidence combined -with the physical evidence, -and then work -with the craftspeople to do -the restoration of them, -is really something special.
-What is so remarkable -about what we have here -at Glendale Farm today is -the work that Jack has done -to maintain these buildings -over more than two decades.
-It's been incremental.
-It's been step by step.
-They're here.
-They have the patina, -they have the character, -and they have the integrity.
-And this is just an amazing -testament to this continued -effort to keep what is here, -keep, keep it standing.
-And it -provides -a not only a sense of place, -but it's also a place of -meaning for us all.
-Hard for me to know -what the future of Glendale -Farm will be.
-in the best world it will be -taken over by someone -who has a similar interest -in maintaining, preserving -these iconic structures.
-I don't know -what will happen.
-I have my hopes -and dreams, but -that's all I have.
-The project poses -some obvious challenges, -the first of which is simply -finding these structures.
-Do a search on abandoned -structures or old barns, -and you won't believe -how many you'll find.
-And it's mind boggling -what can be seen -from a satellite 400 miles -above the Earth.
-Talking with the locals -is a great resource as well.
-I've met some of the nicest -people in my travels, -and once I tell them a bit -about the project, -they're always -willing to help.
-You can tell me.
-I'm looking for, -I think they call it -the O'Neill ballroom.
-Sure.
-Do you know where that is?
-But all this is -only the first steps.
-It always comes down -to boots on the ground.
-And that means -driving a lot of driving.
-Americans -have a somewhat vexed -understanding of history -in the past.
-We have a complicated -relationship with the past.
-We always like to think -we're heading -for the frontier, -for the next thing.
-We're forward leaning.
-We sometimes don't want -to be defined by our past.
-Interesting to me -how New England has played -such an organizing role -in the American imagination.
-But then, of course, over -time, -New England -gives way to Middle America.
-And then the promised land -of, you know, California.
-We're always where -we're at as a nation.
-We're always heading west.
-So again, -sitting in this field -for the last 2.5 hours or so -in pony, Montana, -and just waiting -for the light to happen -so I can photograph -this very cool -little stone -structure behind me.
-I have no idea what it is -or what it was used for, -but I got permission -from the rancher -to be on his land.
-And after I'm done here, -I will go down, -knock on his door -and see if he can -tell me something about it.
-So it turns out that -this beefy little structure -was called a powder house, -and was once -used to store the dynamite -for the nearby gold -and silver mines.
-And was -considered the road -less traveled.
-Oh, man.
-Knows.
-This.
-I can't help -but think about -all the settlers that up -and abandoned their -homesteads due to drought -or local economies -going bust, -just leaving their home -and land -along with their debts -behind.
-This windstorm -blew up out of nowhere, -and the temperature dropped -about 20 degrees -in ten minutes.
-And afterwards, -as I spent the two hours -getting the sand and grit -out of my camera, -not to mention -my hair and teeth, -I had to marvel at -how some of these structures -have been able -to withstand -such incredibly harsh -conditions -for nearly a century.
-Now, I consider myself a -total Boy Scout -when it comes -to getting permission -to be on someone's land.
-But if I can't find anyone -to ask -and the gate is open, -well then sometimes -it's shoot first -and ask questions later.
-And I'm not always this.
-I'd morning.
-Everybody loves -roadside tuna.
-Oh, yeah.
-We got our broccoli salad -and some kind of.
-I'll call this -mayonnaise salad, -but hopefully they'll dress -this up, though.
-But.
Oh, boy.
-Life on the road by fine -dining.
-Oh, man.
-Look at this.
-Those grain flumes -cribbed construction.
-Two by sixes on the flat.
-I can't even imagine -the weight -of this structure.
Wow.
-I would love to have seen -this place's -heyday.
-In.
New.
-It's been said -that the grain elevator -is to the farmer.
-As the lighthouse -is to the sailor.
-But as the 1980s -came to a close, -these old silos -were becoming -a thing of the past.
-Due to their -limited capacity, -they were abandoned -for larger -grain terminals -and bigger cities.
-The tracks were often -pulled up and repurposed, -leaving these prairie -sentinels as nostalgic -landmarks of the generations -that came before us.
-Just four -months after my visit here, -the late season wildfire -decimated the town -for close to 100 years.
-Grain elevators and silos -served as the skyline -for the small Montana -community of Denton.
-That was until that -raging fire -swept through the town, -burning as many as 26 homes -and countless -other structures -and leaving -those picturesque grain -elevators -in a steaming pile.
-I view the project -as equal parts -art history, anthropology, -and storm chasing.
-I'm always chasing -the weather.
-As I wander the prairie.
-And think about the courage -of these early settlers.
-How can I not -think about those -who roamed the land -before them?
-The town of Kremlin, -Montana, population -66, sits along what is known -as the High Line.
-Just a stone's throw -from the Canadian border.
-I had seen some intriguing -photos -of an abandoned prairie -church, but nowhere could -I find exactly where it was -located.
-The only information I had -was that it was just north -of this little town.
-When we -arrive in Kremlin, it -appears to be all -but deserted.
-But then I see a woman -stepping out of her house.
-I stop and ask her -if she knows anything at all -about the church, -and to my amazement, -she says, -you know, it -just so happens -I love photographing -old churches -and schoolhouses.
-Her husband -then proceeds to give us -country directions, like, -we'll go about -four miles that way -and you'll see a mailbox -on a pole.
-You follow that -to the rise in the road, -and then you'll go -about another three miles -or so past the dry riverbed.
-And then I go -a little ways more, -and then you make a left -back here.
-She says, oh, -yeah, this is the case for.
-15 miles of dirt road.
-And 30 minutes later, -I'm about to give up.
-When?
-Now that's Providence.
-Well, look at that.
-This is just remarkable.
-So this is where you gotta -watch out for the prairie -rattlers.
-Wow.
You can see -right from the left.
-Right up to the ridge.
-All the plaster is gone.
-All right.
-So how in the world -am I going -to find out who owns this?
-When it's all said and done, -I'm real grateful.
-I've traveled -all around the world, -and I always was real -glad to get back out here, -where it was quiet -and private.
-And I appreciated it -maybe a little more -as I've gotten older.
-When my elders arrived here -in, January of 1910 -and my great grandpa -was from Michigan, me, -my great grandmother -was, raised just right out -of Geneva, Switzerland, -and she had come over -with her family to America -to go to the World's -Fair and Saint Louis.
-And he was down there -buying cows, -and she came up to Michigan -with him.
-And they got wind of this, -Homestead act, -come out and homestead, -get the land.
-And it was advertised -that everything was real -promising.
-That's what was back east.
-And all the railway stations -and, you -know, to get people to come.
-And they bought that.
-People came.
-My great -grandpa came on a train -by himself with some cows, -chickens -and and a chicken coop.
-And he set up an army.
-Walt.
-And then my great grandma -followed -about six months later and, -got off the train -and Guilford -and walked out -from Guilford, out here -with the kids -and just walked out -across the prairie.
-So they and they made a good -go of it.
-The idea of the church -got started with a fella -by the name of Jacob -Brumbaugh.
-I guess he immigrated -straight from Germany, -took him about two -and a half years -to build the church, -and it was completed -in 1918.
-There was about 200 -original members.
-Yeah.
-There was -some of these -folks are the way -I understood it, that walked -every Sunday morning for 6 -or 7 miles to come to church -once.
-Happened to -have the, building receipts.
-There's three of them -from the carpenter -who was in charge -of building the church here.
-And the total bill, minus -the returns, was $2,437 -for this church building.
-And the most -astonishing thing -of all the items, as -I'm familiar with building, -is the seven foot two, -3.5ft wide, solid -fir doors, -almost two inches thick, -with six -panels, were $7 apiece, -and those doors today -are 4 to $500 -for the same door.
-And they got him in here.
-And yeah, -there's seven bucks and I, -I just thought, you know, -that's something else.
-$7 doors.
-For the most part, -most of this area -had vacated in the early 20s -because of dry weather.
-90% of -everybody left by about 22 -just soured a lot of -people's hopes and.
-For the last summer, -service was 1967.
-Then the church just sat -here, closed up, -boarded up till my grandma -and grandpa bought the land.
-And they have owned it -for the last 40 years.
-The notion of what -to do with this church -building -sure has been talked about -by the community -over the years, -and my mother -and aunt own the property, -and they've been approached -here.
-Folks wanted to buy -the building and move it -for whatever reasons they -were going to restore it.
-And the notion was that the -church needed to stay here -because in our faith, -the church is -the bride of Christ.
-So that idea of ever -selling the church here was, -just discounted -right away by my kinfolk -and the neighbors.
-It that that it isn't -a thing that's for sale.
-And it's up here.
-You know, -I has never been hit -by lightning and no fires.
-That is unusual.
-The power company tells me -that all the time.
-All right, I got call this.
-All right.
-We are out of here.
-Last winter, -my great grandfather's plant -finally blew over.
-And the church didn't -they clock the wind at, -like, 92 miles an hour.
-And that went on for about -five hours straight.
-And I thought, well, that -!church isnt going to make it.
-You know, cleared off.
-And, you know, -the church was standing, -the barn was gone.
-My family's involvement here -was primarily -faith centered.
-So would you say -the faith plays -a role in your own life?
-Oh, well, yeah.
It's huge.
-That's of all the, -trials.
-And I've been a lot of, -a lot of heartache -and sad times in that as, -that has what I do.
-Without my faith, -I wouldn't be here.
-And and that's, -that's been everything.
-Very much so.
-Now, while -I love making art -in my studio, -I always feel restless -knowing -that the clock is ticking.
-That with every passing day, -we're losing more -and more of these gems.
-I need to be out there -shooting.
-My work.
-I've always been drawn to -scriptures.
-Trying to make the through.
-I'm often asked, -who are the artists -that influenced me?
-Andrew Wyeth, -with the muted tones -of his egg temper -and watercolor paintings.
-Edward Hopper, -with his clean, hard -shadows -and strong geometric shapes.
-And my -dear friend Hal Johnson, -with his brooding skies -and remarkable detail.
-These are my mentors.
-My hope -is that those who acquire -my works -will not only be -visually moved, -but be touched -on an even deeper level -when reflecting upon the -history of these structures -and our American heritage.
-I think we all do it.
-And I'm -an old soul at heart.
-Even the camera -I use of vintage four -by five field camera.
-And aside from the quality -that this gives me, -there's just something -about using -this time tested tool -to capture the souls -of these timeworn buildings -that just feels right.
-We're living -in a dynamic landscape, -and there are buildings that -are here for a generation -or generations -which are no longer here, -and provide -a sense of the bones -in the landscape.
-This idea has a kind of, -ghost like quality.
-We know there was a building -there, and now it's gone.
-We know that -there's a building -that has a potential, -to be gone.
-It reminds me of the small -town that I grew up in.
-And people -always used to say, -oh, you make a right turn -where the barn used to be.
-I had past this -rather unique -three story chicken coop -many times in my travels.
-Its sides -were bowing outward, -and it had this meandering -swagger -traveled all along -its extended roofline.
-I had attempted -to photograph it -on several occasions, -but the conditions -were never quite right.
-Then, one great March day, -I captured what I thought -would be just the first of -many images I'd make.
There.
-But when I returned -only a few months later, -I found it had been deemed -a safety hazard, -and in the -midst of being demolished.
-I started -working on the farm here -when I was ten.
-My schedule for the day -was when I come home -from school.
-I change my clothes -and I come down to the farm -to go to work -picking eggs -or shoveling manure.
-I worked for my dad -all my life, so that's, -a big plus.
-You know, most people -don't have that opportunity.
-So I, you know, -I drove around, delivered -eggs with him, and and he'd -say, here's the slip.
-And if I go and rest, -I'll bring him the eggs.
-So we got that in.
-But as far as here, -this job was just, -you know, doing -the daily chores of feeding, -making sure -the birds had water and food -and the manure.
-My grandfather built -the chicken coops -in the late 30s, early 40s.
-That was the Aaronson farm.
-That's what it was called.
-My grandfather -did the hatching operation.
-My father took over -the business from him, -changed it to the table egg -business that it is today.
-The last birds left -this farm in '06 .
In -the prime of our business, -we ran about 15,000.
-It was considered -pretty good sized.
-The reason that we tore -that barn down -was primarily for safety.
-Once the birds left -the farm, the barns -began -to deteriorate over time, -and there wasn't any need -for me to put money back in -to a barn that I wasn't -using or couldn't -foresee using in the future.
-But, the local people, -a lot of them -want me to save them, -but and they want me -to continue farming -and continue it -the way it is.
-But economically, -that's not feasible.
-You can't get the help -they wanted more money -than I'm paying myself.
-And the other thing is, -with all the -businesses in town, -especially this store -next door, -it became very difficult -to run a farming operation -here with the smell -and the noise from -the neighbors, -with the stores -and the lights -and the birds were free.
-So they had -what they call hysteria, -which they would run -to a corner and pile up.
-And and the buildings -are all old and rundown.
-the other end -of that is the the realtors -or the developers that -come into here -and know this property -all want a piece of it, -or want it all to develop it -for their benefit, -for whatever it is, -whether it's condominiums -or a new big store -like the one next door, or -when the Grand Union -was next door.
-They approached my father -with buying -this whole place, -and he, looked at them -and said he wasn't -interested in filling -his suitcase full of money.
-The buildings -that are remaining, -the one we're in, was -the one of the first ones -that were built.
-That lumber -all came off the hill.
-My grandparents owned all -the land across the road.
-Now is in the early 40s.
-The hand cages -and the roofs -are all made the same time.
-The buildings were.
-The windows were there -for natural daylight?
Yes.
-All the new chicken coops -today -are all artificially lit.
-The manure came out -the front, -lugged the grain in there, -fed them by hand.
-The waters -were on a pipeline system.
-The two structures, that one -that was torn down was -three story.
-And this one is three story.
-That's the unique -part of this -farm.
-A few summers ago, -I happened upon -this deserted homestead -in Vermont.
-From the looks of the barn, -I imagine -it had been a dairy farm -at one time.
-These small family -farms are sadly becoming -a thing of the past.
-The simple fact is, either -they have to figure out -innovative ways to compete -with the big guys, -or abandon what might have -been generations of farming.
-Here's a sobering fact -in 1969, there were over -4000 dairy farms -in the state of Vermont.
-Now, just 50 short -years later, -there are less than 600.
-And as the farms -decline, the barns -and iconic structures -that were once -their backbone -often disappear as well.
-And.
Some weeks later, -I drive back to the area -to see if I can track down -someone who might know -something about the farm.
-I remember -passing a small house -about a mile down the road.
-So I pull up -and I knock on the door.
-It doesn't appear -that anyone is home, -but as I'm about to leave, -this woman pokes her -head out the window -and asks, what do you want?
-I ask her about the old farm -down the road -and she says, oh, -you mean the Russian farm?
-The Russian farm?
-She says she doesn't know -much about it, -but Farmer Harold -probably does.
-Back in the car, -I follow her -very specific directions -past the third cow -on the left type of thing, -and pull up to -this good sized dairy farm.
-I'm getting out of my car -when this huge -John Deere tractor pulls up, -a friendly looking guy -must be Harold climbs -down from the cab.
-I ask him about the farm, -and he gladly shares -some memories about -what was then -known as the Myrick farm.
-What do they call it?
-The Russian farm, I ask.
-He chuckles and says, -well, you'll need to talk -to old Bob Myrick -about that.
-He lives in the assisted -care residence up north.
-By this time -it's getting late, but -I decide to drive over there -anyway, -hoping I'm -in the right place.
-I make my way -to the reception desk -and ask the woman -if there is, in fact, -a Bob Myrick here.
-She nods as I give her my -spiel and asks me to wait.
-She disappears down the hall -and when she returns, -she says, -Bob will be happy -to chat with you, -but you're going to have -to wait.
-The Wheel of -Fortune is over, -so after about 15 minutes, -I'm escorted back -to Bob's room.
-I enter in this spry looking -90 something year old -greets me cordially, albeit -with a bit of caution.
-But once I start asking him -about the farm and the life -he built there, he becomes -relaxed and reflective, -transported to another time.
-Well, my -brother bought the farm -for my mother.
-After the death -of my father.
-My father died in 1950.
-And shortly thereafter, -my mother moved to -Burlington.
-But, you know, -it's amazing all the work -dad put in this house.
-So, yeah, -I think it was beautiful, -you know, but, yeah, -probably can't save it.
-Do you remember -the apple tree -that used to be here -that we supply?
-Yeah.
-I remember that -we had a large cow barn.
-We had a sheep shed.
-We had a granary, -a corn crib, an icehouse.
-Because, -we did not have electricity.
-When I was growing up.
-The very first original barn -was actually torn down.
-Correct?
Correct.
Yeah.
-And that was rebuilt by dad -and my oldest brothers, -Larry, Stan, Dana and Steve -and all of the concrete -was laid by hand.
-There was nothing.
-Oh, yeah.
-It was all mixed with a mix, -all mixed -with a mixer -and laid by hand.
-And that's -the way things were done.
-It seems like -there's something missing -on this end of the house, -because the tree, -there was a tree -right from the bush.
-We used to have huge -snowdrifts.
-We would build tunnels -and stuff.
-That was really a drift -up to the second story -of our house.
-We jump out the window under -the into the snow here.
-And I was the fourth child.
-We were all a year apart -the first four years.
-So I had three -older brothers.
-And the way it was back then -was the boys -worked on the farm -and the girls -worked in the house.
-We had the core -of the Soviet Union -and of course -a couple of weeks, probably -one strip and a story.
-Do you remember the force -I used to have back here?
-Caesar?
-Yep, yep.
-This is -the original farmhouse -I think the dad built first.
-Yep, yep.
-So what?
-That's -where somebody to count.
-Remember her?
-I know my dad -because she loved me.
-Scratch didn't -mean to scratch your head.
-She put her -head up and didn't -matter who it was.
-I just remember that -he named cows after us -girls.
-All the boys were expected -to go out in the barn -in the morning -before school, you know, -then clean up a little bit -and go to school.
-Then after school, -come back and work until -chores were done, -and then eat supper.
-And, and always used to -get me with -some kids at school -would say I didn't have time -to do my homework.
-And it's like, -you didn't have to go down -the barn when you got home -from school.
-I did -when I got a little older, -like 12 years old -or something.
-I don't remember, -but I, -I just remember saying, dad, -I don't like doing -housework.
-I would rather work -out in the barn.
-So he gave me a job -to do in the barn.
-He said, all right, -you can put the milk pails -together, -which they were all -pieces and parts, -and they had to be -put together before chores -every evening.
-And I lasted two days.
-I was done, I didnt wanna -do it anymore.
-One of my -biggest memories of dad -was his love for baseball.
-I mean, -he would sit out at night, -no shirt on, Budweiser -in his hand, his lawn chair, -listening for the Cardinals -every night.
-Listen on the radio.
-One of the things he said -is that there was nine kids.
-So we had a baseball team -and we used -to play ball out, fields.
-He was -an old fashioned farmer -where you don't get days -off, you're a farmer.
-But if you had a baseball -game, you played baseball.
-You didn't have to work.
-Baseball superseded it.
-So when the farm -sold in 1991 -to a Russian company -or corporation, -the intent was to bring -Russian students -over here, I think I believe -the Middlebury College.
-It was through, to learn -how to farm and then, -you know, go back to Russia.
-But with the fall of Soviet -Union, it never happened, -which was kind of sad -because it would have been -nice to see this -particular farm -remain operating as it was -right.
-The house was -a beautiful house.
-And to look at it now, -I mean, -it's it's just very sad.
-we sold, -the farm was pretty much -it was on me -because all my brothers, one -at the time, left the farm -and I was the last one.
-So I knew if I left, -the farm was done right.
-I made that decision -I needed.
-I want to do something -different.
-So that's -all I knew was farming, -and I wanted to see -what it was like out there.
-I have days off -and weekends off, -so that was that was the -hardest thing for me to do.
-That decision to make.
-Yeah.
-When, -my husband took me down here -to see this farm that he was -thinking of buying.
-And first of all, -I looked at the house, -and half of the roof of -the house was gone, -and I'm thinking, -there's no way I'm -bringing my mom up -from Brooklyn to see this.
-But then I looked -diagonally -over to this building, -and I looked at it -and I said, -my gosh, I think -that was a schoolhouse.
-And of course, -it wasn't recognizable -because it was a big square -in the front of the -building.
-The bank of windows has -the windows were gone, -you walked in, -the floors were all broken, -and it was completely off -the foundation.
-A story -that I was always told -was a farmer -used to use this land, -and he would use this -building -as a shed -to keep his machinery.
-So tractors were coming in -and out all the time, -and so clearly they didn't -value -it as what it once was.
-And I came in, thought -being a teacher.
-I love this building.
-I want to restore this.
-Paul and I -at the time had two children -and I was pregnant -with my third.
-So it was like, okay, -this kind of has to go on -the back burner for a while.
-It took us two years.
-I think we started -this project in 1970, -probably 7 or 79.
-Okay.
-And it took years because -we didn't have any money.
-We had zero money.
-Farmers.
-Farmers, you know, grain -bills had to be paid for.
-And now, -you know, Paul has a wife -that wants to restore this.
-Mary just uses the shed.
-My first phone call I made -was to our State Department, -and they came down, -and I said, -I want to restore this.
-Are the grants out there -for me to restore this?
-And they looked at it -and they looked at me -and they -said, just use it as a shed.
-And I -said, I love this building.
-I'm not going to keep it -as a shed.
-This building is the heart -and the soul -of our community.
-This is where they held -public discussions, voting, -any meetings -so teachers would get here -very early in the morning, -ride a horse, -come down here.
-If they didn't live -with the farmer.
-Because typically -the teacher, -from what I remember -you telling me -the teacher would always -live across the street close -because it was her -responsibility to come in -early in the morning -to heat up the building.
-The cupboard is original, -with the building -that was here on -the wall was untouched, -and that was the cupboard -that the teacher -would have put her belt -in at night for safekeeping.
-And of course, -there's two entrances, -because the boys -would come in on one side -and the ladies would come in -on the other side, -and girls would enter -the building first.
-Originally, -the school bell was on a -just a post, a wooden post -on the front -of this building.
-And when I started -to renovate this, -I wanted it to sing school.
-And the research showed -that depending on -how much money -community have, -they would have -had a belfry.
-So we put the belfry -up there, -but we put a rope on it -and we always tell people, -come out here, -when people stop, -you have to ring it -before you come here, -and then you got to ring it -when you leave.
You.
-My name is Laura Truman.
-I'm the Vermont State -historic preservation -officer and the director -of the Division -for Historic Preservation.
-The New Haven -Railroad depot wasn't -constructed until 1868.
-We know that -because there are newspaper -accounts -announced the construction -of a new brick depot -for New Haven.
-The New Haven depot -started really as cargo.
-There were multiple tracks -that surrounded the depot -on both sides.
-Passenger service, -of course, was beneficial -to the community, -bringing people up -to Burlington and down -to Middlebury and Vergennes.
-The depot was placed -on the National Register -of Historic Places -in October of 1978.
-Designed -in the Italianate style, -which is a very common -architectural style -for railroad depots -in the late 19th century.
-The story of the railroad -depot -becomes very interesting -after the Rutland -and Burlington Railroad -Company ceases -operations in 1961.
-For three years -after that, the building -just sat vacant -in the state of Vermont, -then took over the right of -ways and ownership -of a number of the depots -!along the line, including the Ne -So in 2015, -we took -a trip down to the depot -to meet with -the construction company -that was leasing it to talk -about renewing the lease, -to talk about the structural -needs of the building, -the maintenance -that needed to happen.
-That's when I started -hearing inklings that, well, -the trains are going to be -coming through more often, -and they're going to be -coming through faster.
-So for several years, -I kept trying to find out -more definitively -when the trains -were coming in faster, -how fast were they going?
-What was this going to do -to our building?
-In December of 2020, -I got the letter -from the Agency -of Transportation saying, -this building is blocking -the sightlines -to the intersection.
-So we knew we had to do -something quickly.
-And the Agency -of Transportation partnered -with us to figure out -the future of the building.
-They were very -optimistic and hopeful that -the building could be saved -and relocated.
-I was probably the one -that said -in the back of my mind, -I need to be prepared.
-If demolition -is the final alternative.
-So it wasn't -until January of 2021 -that we reached out -to the town and said, okay, -we've got to move quickly.
-In January of this year, -I was chairman -of the Selectboard and, -tenants that were currently -here at that point in time -notified us -that they had been, -told that they needed -to be vacated out of here -by June -because this building -was either going -to get moved or tore down.
-So, that just kind of like, -where did this -all come from -all of a sudden?
-This I mean, why didn't -we know this ahead of time?
-And so we started digging -into it a little bit.
-And after talking -to a number of people, -there'd been discussion -through V trans Amtrak -and them for five years -that this building -was on target -to be moved or demolished, -but no one ever notified -the town.
-I mean, -how are we going to move -this building in 11 months?
-Who's going to pay for this?
-Town of Haven doesn't -have any money for this.
-I mean, we can't spend -$1 million doing this.
-Our whole budget is, you -know, only about $1 million.
-This has been -this has been crunch time -right from day one on.
-And so we have to come up -with some kind of a solution -and how this is all going -to happen.
-There's a ton of history -that goes on -with this building, -and we weren't ready to see.
-It just tore down.
-We started looking -for places to put it.
-Where could we move it to -that would be relevant -to the train station.
-Walk in front, -drive it well, we'll walk, -and you know, three -and moving -150 year old brick building -that is on an active -railroad -sitting along an active road -is quite a challenge.
-So the -the challenge is to be able -to stabilize this building -going the move, -and still save -the historic interior -as much as possible.
-Some demolition that's -going to have to happen.
-Interior for them to be able -to put cross bracing in -to stabilize this building -during that move.
-Because brick, as we all can -imagine, doesn't -like to flex very much.
-It's got to be a very rigid -building when we're done, -the building -will be stripped -on the interior, -nail by nail.
-We will examine when those -materials date from.
-Do they date from 1868?
-Do they date from after it -was hit by the railroad car?
-The chimneys will come down -to help lower -the height of the building.
-That brick will be saved, -cleaned, and then it will be -reconstructed -back on site again.
-This town is -had been important to me.
-I guess you don't realize -that the is starting -to get older.
-It's not important -when you're young.
-When I was growing up, -there was farms -all over this town.
-There was four farms on -the road that I grew up on, -which is only 1.6 -miles long.
-There's no farms there -that are active anymore.
-There's farmland -is still being farmed, -but there's no cows getting -milked out there anymore.
-And if you look in this town -right now, -I believe there's only -three active farms -that have cows on them -and milking, -I should say dairy.
-There was probably 75, -50 years ago.
-So we're starting to lose -some of that stuff.
-And the only way barns -get maintained -if there's something -to pay for them.
-And once the cows are gone -and the milk start flowing, -they become a liability -instead of an asset to -the property.
-And it's not just barns, -just many old buildings -that go away -with the one room -schoolhouses -either -get converted into a house -or they fall down somewhere -along the way.
-If they aren't getting used.
-And that was where -this building -was going to come into.
-If we didn't -do something with it, -it was not -going to be here any longer.
-I guess -we just have to think.
-About our past -and maybe our ancestors and -you know, what they did -and how they lived.
-My father went through -the depression.
-He remembered it really -well.
He died this year.
-He was 100.
-And his parents -on a very small farm.
-They eked out a living -like many small farmers did.
-They have always -wanted to eat, -but they never really -had any money.
-That's our heritage, -that's our history.
-And so if we see -those buildings -and that stuff goes away, -we don't save any of it -and we don't tell -stories about it, -we're not going to have it -for the future generations.
-There are many historic -buildings -that are threatened -with alteration, demolition, -change as we want -to develop and progress.
-And and that's only natural.
-You don't want -to put millions of dollars -into saving something -just to have it sit -empty in a new location.
-This building has been the -center of this community, -and now physically, it's -going to be in the center -of the community.
-It won't be right -next to railroad tracks.
-It won't be -a railroad station, -but it will continue -to tell that story -and have a new life.
-And it's something -that we can be proud of, -not just for having it -built, -but for saving it.
-It's a preservation -success story.
-Beautiful.
-That damn thing -better move.
-That can track the.
-Money.
-I'm up before sunrise.
-To map out my day.
-After getting into town late -last night -I was just happy -to find somewhere to sleep.
-station was already closed -when I rolled in.
-And seeing that -I was on a quarter tank.
-I'm just praying -they're open before -I hit the road today -A, I'm chasing down -a few more leads today, but -sometimes it just feels like -I'm chasing ghosts.
-What is that?
-You have got to be -kidding me.
-Is that a depot?
-Homestead?
-The train parked behind me.
-Now, although I've been -at this for a while, -I haven't even scratched -the surface -in my thus far limited -travels, so many structures, -so little time.
-It would take me -a dozen lifetimes -to cover the country -in a way -that would pay proper homage -to all the structures -and all the people -who had -their stories to tell.
-But if I can make people -sit up and notice with what -I am able to capture, well, -maybe that's -just got to be enough.
-I've met so many wonderful -people in my travels, -and though many of these -encounters have been brief, -they've lingered with me -for years.
-I can still see -the weathered -hands and smiling faces.
-I still hear the pride -in the voices -as they share stories -about their great -grandparents -homesteading -on the very land -upon which we're standing.
-So after driving -280 some odd miles today, -we are entering -the little town -of Rabaul.
J.
-Man, look at those.
-So now, let me ask you, -what's your place -in this story?
-Perhaps you've seen -one of these -tired old beauties -in your travels.
-Or maybe even in your own -backyard.
-Will you -give it a second glance?
-If you -linger for just a moment, -maybe you can see your own -grandfather's hands -in the rusted nails -and the faded clapboard.
-Will I ever be done -with this project?
-I'm only getting started.
-For this is my love song.
-To the faded, -the crumbling, -the peeling and the rusted.
-To the hard working, -enterprising -and honest people -who were brave enough -to wrestle a living -and a life from the land -they.
-And that's a wrap.
-And now, as -I head out in search -of the next fading gem, -let me leave you with this.
-Open your eyes -and appreciate -what we have for this -brief moment in time.
-Be intentional.
-Connect -with our older generation -and those who know the -history of the land before.
-They too -are no longer with us.
-And let -this be an encouragement -to treasure these structures -now, for sadly, most -will eventually surrender -and fold -back into the ground -that they were built upon -taking their stories -with them.
-Here they be.
You.
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